The sun was already sinking into damp western
fields when the red and cream CIE bus pulled out of the Long Walk car park. It
was the 4.20pm service from Dundalk to Galway, via every village in between.
This was the mid-eighties, long before the motorways that came to represent the
Celtic Tiger had been built. The trip was scheduled to take four hours but that
was merely a fantasy in a statisticians head. A double-parked car in Moate
could add twenty minutes to the trip and there were at least thirty similar
villages to pass through.
I was with my mate Dave. We’d hatched the
travel plan in the pub on Thursday night. We had a friend at college in Galway
who had regaled us with tales of wild drinking sessions and sing songs by open
fires with the Atlantic roaring outside. Galway had a reputation as the coolest
place in Ireland. We were huddled on the opposite coast in a town that had many
reputations, none of which could be described as tepid, never mind cool.
After a few pints of Harp, we resolved to head
West the following afternoon and stay with our mate for the weekend. There was one
small problem. We didn’t know his address and it being the mid-eighties, we had
no phones either. We communicated back then by letter. A charmingly Dickensian
process that didn’t really work in last-minute spontaneous decisions.
But Dave was an adventurous sort. He had
history in the Scouting movement and I trusted him to deal with the practical
side of things. I imagined he could furnish up a sleeping arrangement out of
moss and twigs if we got really stuck. I was in a low paid job at the time,
while he was surviving on a small college grant. We did a quick budget in the
pub on Thursday and figured out how much we’d need for two days of drinking, four
takeaway meals and the possible price of entry to a disco. We never even
thought about allowing for accommodation costs. A B&B back then would have
cost as much as ten pints of beer and that wasn’t a trade-off we were willing
to entertain.
Plan A was that our mate would be in a
particular pub in Salthill. That was the whole point of our trip. On a previous
visit to Dundalk, he had regaled us with tales of this mythical drinking
establishment. By all accounts, it had the best Guinness on the Western
seaboard. The best traditional musicians. The best view out into the Atlantic.
And the best looking girls from the Arts Faculty at UCG. We were convinced that
we would find him there.
We travelled light, as we always did back then.
A couple of pairs of socks and jocks and a spare shirt wrapped up in a paper
tin sleeping bag. Anything else could be carried in the numerous pockets of our
Parka Jackets. But that hardly stretched beyond a toothbrush and a dog eared
paperback novel.
We stored our sleeping bags on the overhead
racks and settled in for the long ride. We were just outside Mullingar when
Dave brought up the possibility that Plan A may not work. What if our friend
wasn’t there? We quickly put our minds to thinking of other possibilities.
There were a couple of other pubs that he had mentioned. Plan B and C covered
this. We did think about just getting back on the bus and spending four hours
driving east. That was plan D.
Throwing ourselves at the mercy of Church-run
homeless services was considered as was breaking into a church itself and
kipping on a pew. As we passed through the brooding town of Ballinasloe the
bronzed dome of St Bridget’s Mental Hospital peaked its pernicious nose through
the evening fog. Plan X was to affect a twitch and to talk in tongues in an
attempt to get a night’s stay in that scary institution.
We had made it to Galway by the time we had
dreamt up plan Z. I’m guessing we walked from the city centre to Salthill. Our
budget certainly didn’t stretch to Taxis. We found the pub and to our immense
relief, our mate was parked at the bar, Guinness in hand and holding forth to
an attentive audience. We went on to have a wild weekend and budgeted perfectly so that we had just enough for the bus ticket back to Dundalk on the Sunday afternoon.
On the 1st November last, Dave
packed his bags for the last time and headed off on a celestial journey. The
cancer he had battled for six years finally got the better of him. He had faced
that challenge with the same resilience and dark humour that accompanied all
our teenage adventures.
When I was 17 I spent every Tuesday night at
his house listening to Simon & Garfunkel records. He brought a letter from
my first girlfriend telling me that she was taking our relationship on a
journey and I wasn’t invited. We stared out of the school window and he gently
put his arm around my shoulder.
I spent my first holidays away from my family
with him when we camped all over Ireland and then Europe. He was my first
flatmate when we moved to England. I stayed at his house in London when I
needed a stopover when my life took a left turn and I required an escape.
I’ve spent a lot of time over the past few
weeks thinking about those teenage years. All the great events of my life
between 15 and 25 had Dave at its core. He was the best of friends and the best
of people and it breaks my heart that I wasn’t there to say goodbye.
It was the garden of the golden apples,
The half-way house where we had stopped a day
Before we took the west road to Drumcatton
Where the sun was always setting on the play.
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